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These are the days which must happen to you.
We are now just outside Aktobe, Northern Kazakhstan, just about to head South East towards Kyrgyzstan - bit of a convoluted route, but all our research suggested this would be the best roads across the country. If these are the best, we'd hate to see the worst!
Many of the roads can't even be described as roads, just multiple dust tracks over a very bumpy desert. In 2 days we did 100km!
As if driving in the heat and the continual concentration on 3 metres ahead wasn't enough, we were then faced with with having to clean all the powder from ourselves and inside of Mario - it just gets sucked in everywhere! One evening we spent 4 hours wiping everything down, bashing out the furnishings and trying to block all the vents. As the road conditions have been so bad, we're trying to carry as little water as possible (less weight), but then we don't even have the luxury of a nice long shower to get the dust off!
Just as we think we're over the worse, our radiator top hose springs a leak - it's obviously been rubbing against the air filter box. A 2hour temporary roadside fix (silicon sealant, gaffer tape, jubilee clips) and we move on to the next city to sort a permanent solution.
So, its been a tough few days, more lows than highs, but as Bry's tattoo says, "These are the days which must happen to you". We're learning to take the rough with the smooth, for example, when we found a garage to sort the hose, they couldn't be more helpful. They were ringing around to see if the could get a replacement part (over £100), taking us into their office to use Google Translate, ringing friends "who speak English" - although they rarely understand the accent! - and then agreed to repair it by cutting out the worn section and inserting a metal pipe - proper job done, should be fine. We were there for 3 hours, they charged us £10, even topped our water tanks up and refused to accept a tip. Everyone we have spoken to has been really welcoming and friendly.
We've been here a week now and have been pulled by the police everyday so far. Normally it's a quick papers check, a firm handshake and a "Good Luck", but Bry did spend 35 minutes in the back of a police car playing dumb tourist, trying to avoid a 18,250 Tenge (£60) fine for allegedly not stopping at a zebra crossing. They eventually gave up and let him go! Another time we were pulled for only having our sidelights on (lunchtime, bright sunny day). As the officer took Bry back to his car mentioning a fine, they caught the other copper taking a pee at the side of the road. They both thought this was hilarious and the embarrassed copper told his colleague to let Bry go!
We have managed to wild camp most nights - the huge wilderness is ideal for it. Just drive off the road a bit, behind a stand of trees, rise in the ground or whatever and no-one bothers you. Waking up to the sweet smelling heather and seeing the wildlife (great gerbils, steppe eagles, camels) is a wonderful feeling. On two nights we stayed at truck stops - not quite such nice surroundings, but safe and only £1.50 a night.
We are now heading for the Aral Sea, the sea that is no more, with ship graveyards in the middle of the desert. The roads are meant to be OK from now on, with only small diversions into the desert for roadworks, but we will see!
If back in the real world, Bry would be stocking up on cider, crisps, ibuprofen and wet wipes getting ready for his annual boys weekend away at Cropredy. He'll be thinking of the boys (Kev, Neilo, Big Fish & Little Fish) and hopes they don't miss his stimulating conversation too much!
Thank you for your messages and emails - they've really helped lift our spirits over the last few days - please keep them coming and we will try to reply when we can!
Onwards and upwards!
TTFN